The scheme of my elektrofumigatora.
So, in essence, an ordinary electric heater, just bought
malomoschnyy.Zamery sample show that the temperature of the
metal plate is around 100 degrees Celsius (95-105 spread on the
surface). With that on the body indicated power of 3 Watts. The
device is simple, but just do not remember (once deciphered). In
plastic box with a fused mains plug is placed (right up to the
plate) Heater - resistor, size - polvatta, or slightly more,
but seems to be imported, striped, from a number of special -
in this case, the type of refractory. There are still
LED - LED (normal, red,
AL307), can not remember how he enabled, nor is it
it does not matter ... Since the size of rezyuka-heater are
relatively small (for the selected power), it is very strongly
heated that and gives such a high temperature at such
modest heater. And this is precisely the need to strengthen the
plate with an extract Chamomile (Of course, I do not know that
there are in fact).
When he decided to build his own, decided to do
on simple rezyukah, with the same total power. But as sumarnaya
rezyukov power, with a reserve, allocated more power, and their
overall size is much larger than the import rezyuka, the
overall temperature of heating will nizhe.Chtoby pick it up, it
is necessary to isolate the heater from the outside, except for
hand which will be Metal plate (on
you put the plate with the extract). Then the temperature will
rise (to establish a balance), because heat will leave only
through the plate - and it should. Of course, in this case, the
temperature will be higher allowable working with MLT
resistors, and they eventually turn black for sure, but it is us
does not apply as little care soprotivleniya.Nagrevatel thus
should work OK, t.k.tok heating will be less acceptable, and
the heating process does not take avalanche (which can burn
rezyuk), the current itself when heated to slightly subside,
but overheating is not strong, although significant.
I decided to put the indicator, and the simplest - 2 LEDs
included vstrechnoparallelno that ensures, at minimum
simplicity (two parts), and more environmentally clean
electrical circuits (balanced in AC in any direction). Among
other things, this provides more security and inclusion
LEDs - they do not strike. I decided to include an indication
of the mid-point heater - The safest option, no matter where
the phase was.
I decided to wrap the heating resistors
metal plate (which will go to the plate with the extract). Of
course, rezyuki need to cover some heat-resistant insulation
coating from t.k.ih heating time osypetsya and this may
cause a short circuit, but in any case, I decided to play it
safe and made in the scheme of two (essentially symmetrical)
fuse. Of course, such a low current, as have not found, and
used a small carbon rezyuki (I have a lot of them turned out to
be - old model, with a ribbon pin, green such ...). Of course,
you can use any at 0.125 Tues
But if in the scheme, I do not doubt that the device as a
whole certainly were. How successful will own heater, there
will be enough temperatures ...
Assembly.
Found a suitable piece of unilateral
PCB, the contacts of the fork, picked up a few resistors (on
the distribution of power, the total resistance of about 16 k),
took the LEDs and verify all these components. Found metal
(wrapper from batteries "AA"), several times its compressed, as
it was warped, but in the end and remained uneven ... Chose a
few pieces of asbestos. Designed and carved a stamp fee,
obtochil contact plugs (to firmly laid down on board and
well-soldered to it), obludil fee soldered contacts fork (to
align them on the model), soldered LEDs (long selected angle for
symmetry, as a result of a broken away from the legs,
I soldered like managed - but very successful)
soldered resistors, heaters, and in the end -
Resistors - fuses.
For electrical decided to use
old pieces of plaster (not fundamentally ...), torment, placing
insulation between the findings, then wrapped in one layer on
top (Of course, this is somewhat degraded thermal conductivity).
Picked up a metal slotted for conclusions
put on the middle slot of a piece of insulation
(Not to close to the findings of light-emitting diodes),
slipped under the heater (normally get from a few times), the
petals bent metal and the metal itself (carefully and
symmetrically, as an integral heater and keeps only in
soldering, but hangs on 4 findings as would not break off
contact ...), heater rounded top and slightly compressed metal
that he is less moving away from the heater. Ends underside of
metal bent to the board, and therefore, the heater is not only
hung above board (on output), but also relied on
her with one hand. As a result, the heater
was almost completely closed metal (sides and from the forks
were slit, and could see insulation), but the metal is not fit
sverhu.Ya obludil its petals (bottom) and the edge of the top,
then soldered to two conclusions, which pulled both
metal edge (though not perfect).
Nabil bottom (between the board and a metal plate heater)
asbestos for insulation, while it is isolated metal plate from
the board, and the heater is not hung, but a very tough lay on
asbestos. Obludil edge metal plates and solder the two
horizontal radius (Long O), which should push the
media with the extract, they buckled under the media size.
Checked the circuit tester and This completes the assembly.
The result was not the most beautiful and reliable
thing. Asbestos nothing was fixed, the heater
held only on 4-O - soldering, and
at zasovyvanii carrier it had to be
stick to it once again does not move (not to be mixed). Metal
surface on which lay a plate-carrier, was uneven, although the
mustache pressed very good, but they sometimes had to
prim ... plug (due to fees) are not included in the recessed
socket. Although in general enable and disable the device was
simple and safe.
When testing the device has gained only
70 degrees Celsius (and it is necessary 100). Although
mosquitoes are dead, but the effect was much weaker.
Asbestos was not ideal in this case, and
much lower fee warming herself - just these
losses and missed to gain the necessary
temperature. Since the board in place hands touch was just
warm, it was possible to to say that too much heat escapes
through bottom. To increase efficiency, I'm going to try some
sort of thermal insulation material (when it will fall to me)
Zamesto asbestos. Suitable material accurately qest, this is
some kind of ceramics, and some types of glass may also have a
tree as well as special and composite materials, in general, do
not know exactly what, but to find mozhno.Problema that
requires a layer - a few mm, and therefore the properties
teloizolyatsii should be nailuchshimi.Konechno need
another and form-fit size, treat,
obtochit, but after a while ... I'll leave this area, summer is
over, mosquitoes fly off (or will soon fly away) ...
To improve the effect (as well as the use of poluzharenyh
plates) can drip onto the plates a few drops of water, but
after installing the device, otherwise they swell and normally
they do not want to insert. When This (in theory) residues of
substances, solutions, distributed throughout the plate and
effective "emitted" when heated. On practice, if the drop on a
hot, old plate, a few drops of water, the aroma
it increases (or maybe, I think?). In short, just do not know,
but I guess the positive effect of adding water.
Generally, as I understood, the assembly of these devices -
it's more sporting interest than necessity (although in the
summer, when mosquitoes would get ... have you think
otherwise!), and easier to buy than to make yourself. True, I
do not know how much it costs, and extra money too:
but that as anyone. I think that is easier to fix (and
refine) bought but burned-out, than to collect a new one. So
the choice is yours: money - you are better to buy and not to
suffer, the desire and the interest is there - try to collect,
I think, These files will help you a bit ...
Mystery.
An interesting case I had with my device. I turned it into
an adapter for "Euro", but he's badly kept, and almost no
kontachit. I do it a few times gently
"Dockable" and eventually contact appeared -
LEDs are lit. Sometimes I see - went out, correcting ... And
once I saw - lit only one LED. If you look at my
scheme, you will realize that this is impossible, because
if one is on, the contact is, and the other half-- to another
indicator - should also be held. Of course, I assumed that the
other samples (although, why would it?) or just faulty - not
brak.Ved can also stress one half
fall into dozens of times before the other ... I just
pushed to the device (push it to the adapter away), and burned
both of them! And the brightness of each was like more than one
- Then. Examined the device - everything is fine holds, ie
blame has been contact between the plug and adapter.
Apparently, I was witness the rare case where the metal oxides
on the surface gave the effect of the semiconductor and
rectifying the mains voltage (This is real, t.k.nagruzka
low-power, and the current relatively small). But once upon a
time Similar cases were staged as the basis of different
otkrytiy.Nu how do you, what else to explain this? ...
Last edited 6.9.2004 by KSA-7G.
