ZX Spectrum+ 128K
ZXNet echo conference «hardware.zx»
Hello, All
Please do not kick or ban, as a decent user first searched for
Then I went to Google and didn’t find anything suitable, but the question remained.
A week ago a branded ZX+128K arrived from E-Bay.
______________________________________________
If you remember, my first one was ZX 128 +3 and my attempts to make +3 friends with TR-DOS did not
were successful (since it would be a pity to destroy the 3DOS architecture, the only thing
I did this with him and connected the screw)
______________________________________________
So the ZX+128K arrived, not a Spaniard, that’s my own question, I couldn’t find it
pinout of its sys connector.
I REALLY want to connect BDI to it, maybe someone, whatever
advise?
Or maybe there is a ready-made solution, since I’m not a hardware person at all
no ....-(
P/S I was given a MIDI keyboard with an interface to work with him... maybe I need it
to whom? (I'll post photos of the MIDI keyboard in the evening)
File: DSCN0408.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4254
Hello, The Exploited
The> take a regular 7805 and screw on the radiator
What does “ordinary” mean? Can you put KREH?
I'm a sucker, I can only solder wires with pieces of hardware and the circuit is ready, but with
I don’t know the denominations: v2_jawdr;
Yes; and another question, I got the ZX without a power supply...
What power should be approximately 0.5 - 1.0 A?
Hello fan
In general, a problem arose with switching on, this thing burned out: ua 7805 csp
8450, mounted on a HUGE radiator, as I understand it, it’s
voltage converter from 9 volts to 5 volts as power is supplied
only 9 Volts, by the way it stinks disgusting -((( :v2_scare;
Here; Now I don’t know what to replace it with. In Chip and Dip there is - but a little with others
denominations:
_____________________________
L7805CV (+5V,1.5A) TO220
MC7805CTG (+5V,1.5A) TO220
UA7805CKCE3 is the only one similar.....
______________________________
but the one I need is not there.
What to replace it with?
Hello Zerios
take a regular 7805 and screw on the radiator
Hello, The Exploited
Thanks, I'll try it tonight -)
Hello Zerios
Zer> What does “ordinary” mean? Can you put KREH?
bank5a
Zer> And another question, I got the ZX without a power supply, ..
Zer> What power should be approximately 0.5 - 1.0 A?
better 1.5 - 9V DC 1.5A, but maybe 1 will handle
Hello Zerios
Zer> Thanks, I'll try it tonight -)
It is advisable to anoint with paste...
and for the purity of the experiment, do not solder the far right leg first (if
look in the face) - check that there are 5 volts.
and then how do you shoot something incomprehensible on spec...
Hello Zerios
2 Zerios
Your mailbox is full, I’ll answer here -
I have absolutely no idea when I will be able to get out :(
Okay, let's wait until better times, maybe it will be scanned ;)
Zer> What power should be approximately 0.5 - 1.0 A?
HEZE, but the plus has 1.4 A, I suspect that the 128 should have more.
ZY If you're going to cut off the flop line, then don't bother with this garbage,
immediately cut off the dog's power supply!
Hello fan
Yes, I will definitely connect BDI and, accordingly, on the PS power supply, but here
By the way, a question arose about this.
Let’s say I connect BDI, but I’ll have to change my native ROM or through
Randomize Usr to hit TR-DOS.
P.S. Please don’t kick me because I already wrote above that I’m a metal worker
none at all -)
Hello Zerios
Zer> Let's say I connect BDI, but I'll have to change my native ROM or
Zer> get into TR-DOS through Randomize Usr.
if the BDI has its own ROM, then everything works smoothly
Hello, The Exploited
Yes, BDI has its own ROM.
______________________
I installed the KREHK, checked it - everything seems to be ok, it works.
Now I will continue to design: v2_finge;
By the way; I'll post the promised pictures of the MIDI keyboard tomorrow evening, camera at work
forgot...
And another question: is there a difference for BDI, which drive will I connect to it?
5.25 or 3.5?
Of course I want 3.5 .. that’s where the question comes from .. :v2_down:
Hello Zerios
Zer> Yes, and another question, is there a difference for BDI, which drive I use for it
Zer> will I use 5.25 or 3.5?
it doesn’t matter, but 3.5 as a rule doesn’t need 12v, eats less and has space naturally
takes less
Hello Sonic
Son> BDI has its own ROM with TR-DOS. Of course, since Speck is native, in
Son> there will be no TR-DOS start menu, there will be Tape Tester. In TR-DOS you need
Son> will be accessed via USR 15616. If you want, you can replace the ROM with
Son> o-TR-DOS-en.
In this Spec, the ROM is soldered, and since I don’t want to tinker, it’s probably TR-DOS
I'll hang the ROM on top, and on the legs OE or CS, I'll hang a button with a bounce filter.
Should Mona do this or not?
And question number two: I can’t buy a connector for the system, maybe an old ISA
use ?
Or maybe there is someone from whom I could buy 2 pieces. , otherwise production costs -)
Hello Zerios
Zer> Let's say I connect BDI, but I'll have to change my native ROM or
Zer> get into TR-DOS through Randomize Usr.
BDI has its own ROM with TR-DOS. Of course, since Spec is native, in the start menu
There will be no TR-DOS, there will be Tape Tester. You will need to enter TR-DOS via USR
15616. If you want, you can replace the ROM with an o-TR-DOS one.
Hello Zerios
Zer> on OE or CS legs, I’ll attach a button with a bounce filter.
Anyway, in this case the CS on the soldered ROM will have to be cut off to make
upper/lower switching, and on the go there is probably no need to switch -
Then just install a toggle switch without any anti-bounce.
Hello Zerios
Zer> In this Spec, the ROM is soldered, and since I don’t want to tinker, probably
Zer> I'll hang the TR-DOS ROM on top, and on the OE or CS legs, I'll hang a button with
Zer> anti-bounce filter .
Zer> Should I do this or not?
What a sadist :D Your controller has a toggle switch for automatic login
in tyrdos. Exit with return command.
Zer> And question number two: I can’t buy a connector for the system, maybe I can
Zer> use old ISA ?
Zer> Or maybe there is someone from whom I would buy 2 pcs. , otherwise production costs -)
Only isatin is possible (there are no alternatives). You can unsolder it right above the stove
(after sawing off a piece of the board), the main thing is not to drop the scarf on the stove :D
(if the stove is gas, then you need a diffuser)
Hello, Black_Cat
Of course, I don’t need to switch on the go and I won’t.
But no one will respond about the connectors??
Hello, CHRV
CHR> These are the perverts...
CHR> Let me explain for the last time:
CHR> ...
CHR> EVERYTHING!
Nothing happens to the board? In the sense that SMD can be merged this way
without damaging the board?
Hello icebear
ice> Nothing happens to the board? In the sense that so SMD
ice> Is it possible to drain without damaging the board?
Nope, you can’t drain the SMD like that, just ask Ronin or ZhTh, they seem to understand it
how the SMD is removed!
I usually disassemble all the junk boards this way, and they can even be easily removed
There are a variety of PGA sockets. And from chipsets - beautiful keychains for keys
they work!
Hello, Black_Cat
Bla> push out 62 legs one at a time, but it still doesn’t push out and
Bla> warms up poorly, and it is impossible to suck out the solder, because... diameter
Bla> the hole is small, but the leg has a large one and there is almost no gap... ...that's better
Bla> burn 10 old boards and successfully pull out one connector :) In general
Bla> manual desoldering is not worth the time.
These are the perverts...
Let me explain one last time:
1) We buy a construction hair dryer with 400/600 degrees (usually, but there are also 800 degrees) -
costs 500-700 rubles;
2) We make a nozzle for a hair dryer from a tin can (long U-profile - along the length of the ISA
connector);
3) We fix the board in something (for example, we put it between two stools);
4) put on the nozzle, turn it on, wait until it warms up (half a minute) and direct it with
soldering sides - heat for some time until the tin begins to gurgle and pull out.
ALL!
Hello fan
fan> Quote:
fan> Message from Zerios
fan> Basically, in “Chip and Dip” I found connectors, but I don’t know the step
fan> will suit them ..
fan> http://www.chipdip.ru/search.aspx?m...&ok.x=42&ok.y=5
fan>
fan>
fan> Suitable (2.54mm)
just call them - we (St. Petersburg) are also listed with them, but they’re not alive...=(((
Hello fan
fan> Suitable (2.54mm)
Thank you, I ordered it from Chip and Dip, it will arrive on Monday.
Hello fan
fan> And if you overexpose it, the PCB will overcook and the whole apartment
fan> stinks, it’s better to start this procedure with the windows open yet
fan> warmth
Well, in general... it seems like I overexposed it, but the tin still didn’t melt... even if you pull it
- at least don’t pull, but the plug remains in place... but what a stench it is: v2_scare;
Lana; This is all lyrics, but the question is essentially, can you desolder ISA with a soldering iron?
As promised, photo of the MIDI keyboard.
File: DSCN0410.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4275
Hello Mike
Mik> Why is that train coming out of her back?
Since the keyboard consists only of “buttons”, the cable is inserted into
a special interface (as I understand it, the interface is homemade), which itself
inserted into the system connector +128 K .. (I only bought Spec, and the keyboard was in my
the load was given along with the interface)
Hello, Black_Cat
Bla> It’s better not to try this deadly trick.
Why is it fatal?
In principle, I found connectors in “Chip and Dip”, but I don’t know their pitch
will do..
http://www.chipdip.ru/search.aspx?mode=parm&groupid=1297&v.parm804=%F1%EB%EE%F2
&v.parm805=%EF%E0%E9%EA%E0+%ED%E0+%EF%EB%E0%F2%F3&v.parm806=%EF%F0%FF%EC%FB%E5&
v.parm807=2.54&v.op808=gt&v.parm808=60&v.parm811=&v.parm812=&v.parm814=&v.parm8
17=&ok.x=42&ok.y=5
Hello Zerios
Zer> Lana this is all lyrics, but the question is essentially, you can use an ISA soldering iron
Zer> unsolder ?
I suggest the old Indian method - heat the leg with a soldering iron (from the side
rations) and pull them out one at a time, then of course you will also have to push them back
, but as long as they are needed, not all this is not so scary. If they don't want to
climb, then push in with a heated soldering iron.
Hello Zerios
Zer> Basically, in “Chip and Dip” I found connectors, but I don’t know the step
Zer> will suit them ..
Zer> http://www.chipdip.ru/search.aspx?m...&ok.x=42&ok.y=5
Will fit (2.54mm)
Hello Zerios
Zer> Well, in general... it seems like I overexposed it, but the tin still didn’t melt....
Zer> no matter how hard you pull it, but the connector remains in place... but it stinks
Zer> which one
I soldered the boards on a spirit lamp (including connectors and sockets from 486), though
I did this in the summer wearing a gas mask and with the windows open.
Hello Zerios
Zer> What is deadly?
62 legs push out one at a time, but it still doesn’t push out and warms up poorly, but
It is impossible to suck out the solder, because the diameter of the hole is small, but the leg is large and
there is almost no gap... ...no, it’s better to burn 10 old boards and successfully pull them out
one connector :) In general, manual desoldering is not worth the time spent.
Hello Zerios
Zer> can you desolder ISA with a soldering iron?
This is a deadly trick :) better not try it. Are there really computers in Maskwa?
There are no flea markets left where you can find a normal Christmas tree or ISA connectors already
Should I buy soldered ones? :) By the way, new ISA connectors are sold in stores
electronics, at least in St. Petersburg :).
According to technology, there was an even more gentle method of desoldering, but also more expensive -
This is a bath of molten solder or just lead. At the same time the fee is less
The light is on and the contacts are warming up well. Practically - it is flat, low-sided
a metal can with melt right up to the edges, on which a board is placed on top
so that all the legs of the connector are dipped into the melt.
In general, there was no need to be afraid of smoke and the smell of burnt fiberglass - to hell with
him, and the connectors - a little more and could have been removed. :)
Another way is to buy a hair dryer for 700 rubles and make a nozzle out of tin
to direct the jet across the width of the entire connector. There will be a smell, but less than
open flame. And a hairdryer will come in handy around the house :) .
Hello Zerios
Zer> Since the keyboard consists only of “buttons”, then the loop
Zer> is inserted into a special interface (as I understand the interface
Zer> self-made), which itself is inserted into the system connector +128 K .. (I
Zer> I only bought Spec, and they gave me the keyboard along with it
Zer> interface )
So this is not a MIDI keyboard then, it’s just a keyboard for spec, in this case
case...
Hello Zerios
Zer> Well, in general... it seems like I overexposed it, but the tin still didn’t melt....
Zer> no matter how hard you pull it, but the connector remains in place... but it stinks
Zer> what :v2_scare;
Zer>; Lana, this is all lyrics, but the question is essentially, you can use an ISA soldering iron
Zer> unsolder ?
Zer>
Zer> As promised, photo of the MIDI keyboard.
You can use a soldering iron if you have suction. It’s a bit painful, but it’s possible. Easier of course
construction hairdryer.
PS. The keyboard is cool. Why is that train coming out of her back?
But mine, well, I mean, incl. most often working with a midi keyboard:
Picture: http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4276&stc=1
File: EnsoniqEPS16.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4276
Hello, Black_Cat
Bla> push out 62 legs one at a time, but it still doesn’t push out and
Bla> warms up poorly, and it is impossible to suck out the solder, because... diameter
Bla> the hole is small, but the leg has a large one and there is almost no gap... ...that's better
Bla> burn 10 old boards and successfully pull out one connector :) In general
Bla> manual desoldering is not worth the time.
Yes, you can do it without a nozzle, just move it back and forth and warm everything up.
Hello Mike
Mik> So this is not a MIDI keyboard then, it’s just a keyboard for spec
Mik> in this case...
To be honest, I haven’t disassembled the keyboard yet, but it feels just like me
wrote above.
Hello Mike
Mik> Yes, you can do it without a nozzle, just move it back and forth and warm everything up.
It’s possible, but as they say, you can also ride a bike without a saddle!
Hello, CHRV
CHR> Let me explain for the last time:
CHR> 1) We buy a construction hair dryer at 400/600 degrees (usually, but there are also
CHR> for 800) - costs 500-700 rubles;
yeah, that’s exactly how it’s done, the connectors look like they came from a store (formerly with a stove
I was playing around, the connectors got bent, and the neighbors were arguing for some reason. probably because
smell of hell)
CHR> No, you can’t merge SMD like that,
why not? everything comes off easily
Hello Zerios
Zer> , in the native block that converts the video signal (antenna output),
This is such a hefty iron box that generates a TV RF signal (in which
the wire is pushed into the antenna input)?
Zer> coil core is split
Does it unscrew? If so, just glue it and screw it back.
Hello, The Exploited
I replaced the Krenka, the power supply was back together and everything was ok. (PSU - 9V 2A)
The spec started, but a problem arose in the native unit, which
converts the video signal (antenna output), the coil core is split, and
a stable signal, such that the TV would pick up (Sorry if it’s clumsy
I explain), it was not possible to achieve it. The picture floats, the interference is strong, and on
On the TV you can see the picture, but on the TV Tuner there is nothing at all.
What should I do?
Hello Zerios
But if you take Synchro and GND (connect to TV to composite) - picture
stable, but shifted up and to the left... as I understand it, somewhere, something
inverted... right??
Hello Zerios
Zer> Before I split the HF....
Don't shoot the pianist, he plays as best he can. Why should you bother with the 128th?
modulator and a computer in general for composites, when you can use RGB
connect to SCART?
Hello Zerios
Zer> When connected to a composite - a gray screen.
Perhaps instead of a composite it was taxied to +5.
Zer> When searching through HF, the picture is unstable.
With the HF box outputting the HF composite de-energized, this is strange;)
Zer> But if you take Synchro and GND (connect to TV to composite) -
Zer> the picture is stable, but shifted up and to the left... as I understand it
Zer> that somewhere, something is inverted... right??
If the picture is visible, it means it is not synchro, but a composite (I thought it was synchro).
Is the image in color?
What is shifted is normal, on the plus the same is shifted to the left.
Hello fan
fan> Perhaps instead of a composite, +5 was taxied
I checked, it was the composite that was taxiing, which is on the leg of the BC239 transistor (Tr 11
according to the diagram) sits. (Before I split the HF, I looked at it with a tester, and so at
the composite leg was 2.3 V, and the second leg was 4.95 V)
fan> With the HF box outputting the HF composite de-energized, this is strange
I didn’t express myself precisely, for the sake of experiment I tried to connect what I soldered
to the antenna input of the TV (so there is a picture, but unstable, exactly the same
as before the rework)
fan> If the picture is visible, it means it’s not synchro, but a composite (I thought that
fan> sync). Is the image in color?
fan> What is shifted is normal, on the plus the same is shifted to the left.
The picture is visible, black and white, shifted greatly 128MENU - in the upper left corner
TV (and even then not all of it, part outside the TV screen)
I took the synchro from the RGB connector, as per the diagram..
Maybe I have something else broken before the RF module....?
_____________________________________________
I looked at the diagram, but can I take the composite directly from the 6th leg of TEA2000?
Hello icebear
ice> Don't shoot the pianist, he plays as best he can. What for are you in the 128th
ice> poking around the modulator and the computer in general for a composite when you
ice> via RGB can you connect to SCART?
There is no SCARTa .... it’s a shame myself -)
Hello icebear
Zer> The picture is visible, black and white, shifted greatly 128 MENU - on the left
Zer> in the upper corner of the TV (and even then not all of it, part outside the TV screen)
One gets the impression that there are no synchronization pulses and the card is caught by
black outline of the frame: D In general, it doesn’t matter, forget it.
Let's return to the composite for the iron box, taxied to
http://user.tninet.se/~vjz762w/fixuspec.html and find there the signature under one of
pictures -
This fix is for ZX Spectrum +2A/+3 only.
Just above there will be a picture with three diodes and a transceiver, this is the saving grace
schematic diagram Surely you can use a similar design for these purposes already
available on the board - TR14 with diodes (ZX Spectrum 128+ (Investronica 2-1)
Schematics.pdf). You can try to start with a signal from the sixth leg
encoder onto the TR13 base (after unsoldering the leg with the base). Something strange will happen
- unsolder TR13 and feed the signal from the sixth leg of the encoder to the anode of diode D34.
So far this is all that came to mind from the anti-scientific heresy :D
If you have KT315 transuns lying around, then assemble a pop emitter
repeater, and attach it to the sixth leg of the encoder (IMHO it will help no worse than on
that scheme).
Hello Zerios
Terra, unfortunately, works like all people - from 9 to 18. Therefore, you cannot get into it.
In Mitrakon the prices have fallen completely out of their minds. At least they were for me
when I was last there.
Hello Zerios
Ftopka IMHO chip-and-dale delivery. To be honest, I would ftop them myself
I sent it, but unfortunately there is no alternative. Was good on Kurskaya before
Promelektronika store only these stsuko kicked them out. :(
Let's start with the fact that the Chupa Chups web catalog does not reflect the real thing at all
state of affairs. I've run into this more than once. Look at which store has it,
you're going - hell with butter! So you have to make a phone call. They kill over the phone
asked a question in response to a question:
Q; me; you need a capacitor 47 uF x 10 V
A; which one; marking?
However, this is still the simplest case. If you need to buy something from
switches/buttons/etc., then please go to the store and look,
would any of the Chinese ones presented on display suit you?
illiquid assets produced for unknown reasons.
Hello Zerios
By the way, another option is to repair the broken coil. I think it's a similar core
can be found in Chupadupsa, count the number of turns.
Hello fan
fan> By the way, how much do Chip and Dail charge for delivery? (courier delivers or
fan> via mail?)
The details are there - that's not a problem.
And delivery to Chip and Deep is courier in Moscow for 185 rubles. , if the order is for 10,000
RUB - free.
And since my office orders a lot of things, it’s free for me -)
They also deliver by mail -) (payment upon receipt, if I'm not mistaken)
Hello Sonic
Son> To be honest, I would have sent them a photo file, only alternatives to
Son> unfortunately no
Why not - there is, for example, http://www.terraelectronica.ru/, not far from metro station.
Paveletskaya, or http://www.mitracon.ru/ also m. Paveletskaya, or ... whatever it’s called
it seems Paladin... or http://www.megachip.ru/
Hello Sonic
Son> By the way, another option is to repair the broken coil.
That's the point. that I would rather have composite or S-Video, because how do I connect
I will use it ONLY for the TV tuner (because my wife won’t use the TV anyway
will give -), and two TVs in one not very large room.... and so that’s the place
malova), then I don’t see the point in HF (on composite or S-Video, picture
better anyway)
Hello Zerios
Zer> Well, it'll be the weekend, then I'll sit down longer
Stock up on tattoos and details in advance
(http://user.tninet.se/~vjz762w/images/videofix+2a-3.jpg) .
By the way, how much do they charge for Chip and Deal delivery? (courier delivers or via
mail?)
Hello fan
Well, it’ll be the weekend, then I’ll sit up longer, otherwise only in the evenings
I manage to do something in fits and starts... I spend more time preparing than working...
Okay, I’ll write how it turns out or not, and if it works out, then with photos
-)
P.S. It's a shame that the BDI is completely ready, all that remains is to re-solder the connector
(by the way, while rummaging through the bins I came across old Soviet connectors, either SNP or
Whether CHO, they really have a pitch of 2.5, but they’re suitable for a Spekov system. ) and check
Mona, but here I can’t adjust the picture..... it’s even embarrassing...
Hello Sonic
Hurray, today Chip and Dip finally delivered my order, so I'll give you the details
I'm guaranteed, I'll be "creating" on the weekend, I'll write about the results -)
Hello Zerios
Thank you very much to everyone for the advice, my spec has come to life, everything shows perfectly.
(composite)
I'll post pictures later -)
Hello Zerios
Zer> Yeah, it’s just that I already had it in Wav on my handheld, I used it
Zer> loaded.
Zer> Now the second part of the Marlizon ballet begins - connect
Zer> BDI...
by the way!
what do you use for a handheld for tape things?
rush to the post office, or even better - knock on Asya, we’ll chat...
Hello Zerios
Zer> And here are the screenshots.
Zer> The spec is connected via composite (Fan - thanks for the link)
Zer>
Zer> P.S. Screenshots taken from the TV tuner....
exilon....
how much time was spent on it.....uuuu......:v2_wink:
Hello Zerios
And here are the screenshots.
The spec is connected via composite (Fan - thanks for the link)
P.S. Screenshots taken from the TV tuner....
File: 01.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4312
File: 02.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4313
File: 03.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4314
File: 04.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4315
Hello, Mikka_A
Mik> exilon....
Mik> how much time was spent on it.....uuuu......
Yeah, it’s just that I already had it in Wav on my handheld, so I loaded it.
Now the second part of the Marlizon ballet begins - we connect BDI...
Hello, Mikka_A
Mik> by the way!
Mik> what do you use for your handheld for tape things?
Well, first of all, I download from WOS or from http://tzxvault.retrogames.com/, whatever I need
noona in .TZX format.
Then using the TXZ2WAV program, I convert everything to WAV, and then on the handheld
There is a program called Pocket Player, which perfectly understands WAV and MP3... (I have
a lot of things have been translated into MP3). (See picture)
Sometimes I use loading a real spec using an emulator (I use
Speculator), and the first thing I installed was an MP3 disc player -)
But by the way, it’s most convenient from a handheld..
File: DSCN0412.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4318
Hello Zerios
Zer> Well, first of all, I download from WOS or from http://tzxvault.retrogames.com/, that's all
Zer> that I need noona in .TZX format.
Zer> Then using the TXZ2WAV program, I convert everything to WAV, and then to
Zer> The handheld has the Pocket Player program, which understands perfectly
Zer> WAV and MP3... (I have a lot of things translated into MP3). (See picture)
Zer> Sometimes I use loading a real spec using an emulator
Zer> (I use Speculator), and the first thing I installed was MP3 disk
Zer> player -)
Zer> But by the way, it’s most convenient from a handheld..
got it.
pasipp.
PS. Look in Asya...
Hello Zerios
Zer> Now the second part of the Marlizon ballet begins - connect
Zer> BDI...
Is there any progress? And then a stupid question arose - are you like a thread?
did you attach the iso connector?
So far I can only imagine one option - to drill into some kind of housing (under
controller) a bunch of holes for the legs of the satin, push the satin into these holes,
put the legs on it (or solder a breadboard with holes, then it’s really tight
will) and only then solder the wires. Here .
Hello Zerios
Zer> I did not use ISA... as I wanted, I bought it from Chip and Dip
Zer> http://www.chipdip.ru/product0/7307.aspx - these are the regional ones
Zer> connectors
In general, that's what I'm talking about :D
Zer> in BDI was simply soldered in place of the old one (the board turned out to be correct
Zer> divorced and the holes fit).
OGO:v2_eek; Like; there finally the holes should go in a zigzag %) The connector is soldered
vertically or as if lying on the board (i.e. how the old one was soldered before)?
Can you post a portrait of the part of the scarf where the connector is soldered?
Zer> And for +3 (hard when connected),
According to what scheme?
Hello fan
I didn’t use ISA... just as I wanted, I bought it from Chip and Dip
http://www.chipdip.ru/product0/7307.aspx - these are the edge connectors, in BDI
I just soldered it in place of the old one (the board turned out to be correctly routed and there were holes
came). I unsoldered the wires that replaced the connector and soldered in a new one, but not yet
connected .
And for +3 (when I connected the hard drive), I soldered the same connector to the circuit board on
I set everything up for her and everything works. When the time comes, I’ll poison the normal one -) anyway
that I now have +3e -))
Hello fan
fan> The connector is soldered vertically or as if lying on the board (i.e. as before
fan> was the old one soldered)?
The connector is on the board. (and before there was no connector there, just holes in
which wires were soldered)
fan> Can you post a portrait of the part of the scarf where the connector is soldered?
Yes, when they repair my camera...
fan> According to what scheme?
from http://www.worldofspectrum.org/zxplus3e/interface.html .. because it’s a different scheme
didn't see..
Hello fan
fan> Any progress? And then a stupid question arose - are you like a thread
fan> what thread attached the IP connector?
fan>
fan> So far I can only see one option - drill in some
fan> case (under the controller) a bunch of holes for the legs and satin, shove it in
fan> fill these holes with satin, screw in the legs (or solder a breadboard with holes,
fan> then it will be completely tight) and only then solder the wires. Here
fan> .
Here's a picture - a piece of an ISA connector is soldered onto a piece of a breadboard, and assembled little by little -
video signal amplifier and Kempston Joystick Interface.
File: zxinterface.jpg http://zx.pk.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=4435
Hello, tnt23
tnt> Here is a picture - a piece of an ISA connector is soldered onto a piece of a breadboard, and assembled by
tnt> little things - video signal amplifier and Kempston Joystick Interface.
Yes, I have a question about soldering a ready-made Soviet device to isatena and
fastenings of this very satin. It turns out that without taking special measures and satin
will hang on the wires. So I’m actually interested in how others are doing in
similar situation done .